A most consistent tradition survives associating St Columba with
Bernera which alleges that in his day a huge yew grew on the cliffs
on the small island of I-una (Bernera). It was here that he was
said to hold meetings under the shelter of this enormous tree and
that he made certain prophecies specifically concerning it. One
of these prophecies was that it would be destroyed by Man which
indeed come to pass about 1000 years later.
This unfortunate prediction came true in the 18th century when
the tree was felled by the Campbells of Loch Nell to build a staircase
for Loch Nell castle. As they were crossing back to the mainland
the cargo of heavy wood contributed directly to the sinking of the
boat containing it and drowning several of the men aboard in the
process. Fires, accidents and deaths plagued the Campbell family
as apparently foretold by St Columba and the third fire destroyed
Loch Nell castle itself. It is also alleged that the staircase built
from the yew was comparatively intact following the fire.
On nearby Lismore the local tradition of St Columba and a yew tree
is demonstrated by a stain glass window in the church which depicts
him by the yew tree.
I had wondered for years whilst coming across such intriguing references
and stories if part of this yew still existed and then a friend
sent me a small book written in the late 1950s which mentioned the
‘resurrection’ of St Columba’s Yew -Tree. This
startling piece of evidence meant that I had to look for myself
and in August 1994 with three companions I crossed at low tide from
Lismore to Bernera.
Prior to crossing I could already see the dark green patches of
yew which seemed to spread along the cliff edge and although on
closer inspection they became many trees I was looking for the old
trunk, evidence of an ancient tree. From the top of the cliff it
was impossible to see within for all of the old root system had
regrown all along the cliff face, taking a hold in the cracks and
crannies with the result that the growth was so dense that not a
branch could be seen from above.
As hanging over cliffs is not generally a good idea, I made my
way down to the base through a tangle of obstacles, including some
particularly thorny undergrowth overrun with well established brambles.
Once through this however I found myself to be in what appeared
to be some form of natural amphitheatre, directly in the shadow
of a yew canopy and therefore a spot well sheltered by the growth
above it.
On my left as I walked under it I noticed what appeared to be an
alcove or hollow in the face of the cliff and what once could have
been a crude shelter made from stone. To my right was a small area
of grassy plain and directly in front of me a small bay: It was
not difficult to imagine a small boat landing there.
About 14ft or so above my head on the cliff face I could see part
of the old yew, a stump right next to a youthful looking yew, however
I could not manage to scale the cliff face to get a closer look.
At the spot it was easy to visualise that St. Columba may have
stood there and preached to his congregation and it is worth bearing
in mind that Columba and his followers visited several of the Western
Isles before deciding to settle on the island we know today as Iona.
Many people in the locality know the history of these islands and
during my investigations I met a Dr.Livingstone and spoke with the
Earl of Dundonnell by telephone. Both of them,and a Mr Campbell
- himself descended from the perpetrators of the felling - had taken
cuttings from the regenerating yew which had been taken back to
the mainland. At least one of them had definitely taken and it was
through the planting of these cuttings that apparently a curse on
the Campbells, which had dogged them for almost 300 years, was lifted.
The history of St Columba, and his love of trees and the yew in
particular, is well known and so it is recorded that he and his
followers visited several of the Western Isles before deciding to
settle on the island we know today as Iona. Therefore I believe
it to be possible that he gave Iona it’s present name due
to his earlier visits to Bernera ( I-una ).
He may have decided not to settle on Bernera for several reasons,
perhaps because it was too small to provide sufficient resources
for him and his group of friends to settle permanently. However
it could also be because he did not want to bring too much attention
to this sacred place and in all probability a larger island would
be more suitable for any anticipated large congregations.
I intend to return to Bernera if ever I am able to do so. |
